This year was reputed to be the year that Jaeger LeCoultre put up another games look for sale to the public – one that would join the developing positions of the cutting edge “extravagance don” class, and (we trusted) would convey a crisp adversary to any semblance of Piaget, Girard Perregaux, Audemars Piguet, and even Patek Philippe contending in that space. Also, they have – sorta.
Since 2018 is additionally the 50th commemoration of the first Memovox Polaris from 1968, Jaeger LeCoultre is presenting at SIHH five new Polaris models to a completely new gathering in an assortment of confusions and completions: a couple of three-gave models (one with a date, and one without), a chronograph, a worldtimer, and a constrained release alert variation to lead for the first watch that propelled the entire accumulation.
In all actuality, these new Polaris watches are a long way from the cutting edge Nautilus-executioner we’ve been wanting, yet that is alright – appears as though we’ll be sparing that fight for one more day. What we do have here however, is a quintet of astounding, vintage-propelled sports watches intended for a wide assortment of dynamic ways of life, and worked with in-house produced developments and JLC’s model completing – and that is presumably enough to hold us over for the present.
Speedy foundation on the Polaris – it was presented in 1968 in to a great degree restricted numbers as the successor to the Deep Sea Alarm. The ’68 Polaris had an inventive new caseback intended to intensify the caution submerged, while remaining completely watertight.
It likewise utilized a readable 12-6-9 dial format with a one of a kind pivoting plate in the inside for the caution, and three-crown plan (one to set the alert, the center to work the watch capacities, and the 4:00 crown to turn the bi-directional inward bezel), yielding a particular tasteful and usefulness that would make it significantly alluring on the optional market once ceased. At that point in 2008, as the vintage re-issue drift was simply bursting into flames, Jaeger LeCoultre paid tribute to the Polaris’ 40th commemoration with a reliable re-version that was even rarer than its source material – less than 800 pieces in that run.
The staggering shortage and resulting craving for the Tribute to Polaris likely educated the new Polaris gathering, as Jaeger LeCoultre is by all accounts putting a considerable lot of value into the expectation that authorities aren’t simply infatuated with the history and uncommonness of the Polaris, yet its general plan and utility also. To arrive, JLC is building the line around a totally new case – one that is inconspicuously unique in relation to its antecedents, with short, faceted hauls, and a more slender adjusted bezel.
The meaningful crowns have additionally gotten a facelift to enhance their hold. The greater part of the pieces in the gathering convey 100m of water protection, and have a presentation caseback to flaunt their separate developments inside. Tie choices all through the accumulation are additionally especially various, with elastic, calfskin, and a recently designed three-interface wrist trinket joining the crease.
As said, there’s a complexity and execution for basically every way of life proclivity: from ordinary adaptability, to globe-running, and significantly appropriate plunging, authorities are ruined for decision. The three-gave no-date variations will stamp the gathering’s entrance point and will likely turn out to be the most well known.
Estimating 41mm, and accessible in both dark, and blue dials with joined sunray, grained and opaline completions, and a decent scope of tie choices, they’re fitted with JLC’s in-house cal. 898/1 – a bi-directional winding programmed development with clay metal balls – the same as what’s sent in the Geophysic 1958 LE and Master Control watches (sans date and gold rotor). On the off chance that there ever were a more genuine contender to the Rolex Explorer, I’d beyond any doubt get a kick out of the chance to see it.
For the individuals who lean toward the soul of the first, the gathering’s Polaris Date accomplishes something beyond include a date opening at 3:00 with the cal. 898/1 – it likewise blends in a domed gem and vanilla-hued Super-LumiNova, while increasing the water protection from 200m, much the same as 2008’s Tribute to Polaris. The caseback is likewise shut, and engraved with a jumper – simply like the first, and a solid flag of outline aim this is the most energetic and able to do all the new alternatives.
The greatest takeoff from the source material will be the Chronograph and Worldtimer variations, which are marginally upsized to 42mm and are fitted with JLC’s 751 chronograph bore which has 65 hours of energy hold. The Chronograph is additionally the main choice in the accumulation that includes a rose gold-cased variation. The Worldtimer is a smidgen bigger at 44mm to keep up neatness of the additional urban communities rehaut, yet is produced using titanium to keep the weight low.
It keeps up the 100m water protection of whatever is left of the Polaris accumulation however, making it a great thought for an unadulterated travel/get-away/office watch. Tragically, all the chronograph alternatives are feeling the loss of the outline virtue found in the middle ‘caution plate’ which has for quite some time been a mark of the Polaris. Despite the fact that non-practical, its land is at any rate saved in soul with the three-hand models, yet in the event that you’re not gunning for vintage credibility, the bi-compax chronograph is as yet a great outline individually justifies.
On the other hand, the most steadfast of the new Polaris accumulation will be the Polaris Memovox 50th Anniversary Edition, which brings all the outline signals and triple-delegated marks of the first, including JLC’s vaunted Caliber 956 – a similar caution development utilized as a part of all the cutting edge Memovox watches, including 2008’s Polaris Tribute. In spite of the last Tribute, the 50th Anniversary variation feels just as it’s been somewhat refreshed, as opposed to re-cleaned.
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It acquires the connected hourly components, long sword-molded hands and smooth new 42mm case from whatever is left of the accumulation, while multiplying down on vintage vibes with a liberal utilization of beige Super-LumiNova all through. Your chances of scoring one are just somewhat higher than the first Tribute, as it’ll be constrained to 1,000 pieces, this go-around.
On the whole, the new Polaris accumulation has a few victors, and is a major advance for Jaeger LeCoultre, regardless of whether it does little to whet our want for something somewhat fresher and more present day from the Grand Maison at SIHH this year. Valuing for the programmed model will go from $6,600-$7,600, the date model will be $7,750-$8,700, and the Memovox is $12,600. The chrono extends between $10,000-$24,500 while the worldtimer chrono is estimated between $14,500-$14,600. Stay tuned for our hands-on impressions once we’ve had an opportunity to see them all face to face